U.S. 21st Special Forces Group (Rangers Pathfinders Airborne)

(at FORT KAFFENBERGER)

JUWTF SOG

Home

"82nd Airborne Division Photos"

Combat Photo Gallery

TOYS Arsenal (Ammunition)

1/6th scale  FURNITURE

Basic Training

Real MEDIC Training

Tae Kwon Do    Dojang

Wife's  EBay Seller "Feedback"

Wife's EBay Store

FREE American Top 40 Music

Hummvee Armored Ambulance

WW2 German Gatehouse OPFOR

Husband's EBay Seller "Feedback"

Husband's EBay Store

Our TOYS creation Lab

Research & Development Projects (New TOYS)

Combat Support Units
(coming soon)

Combat Service Support Units
(coming soon)

Civilian Assistance  "IDAD"

How Our TOYS Are Made

CHRISTMAS Celebration & SONGS!

Our PARACHUTIST School

Our RANGER School
 

Aviation & SCUBA
 

"101st Airborne Division Photos"

Tank & Artillery Ammo

Cold Weather Survival

Cabinet Shop

Pentagon West USA

GUIDON, U.S. 21st SFG(RPA)

Scrub, Gown & Glove Procedures

21st M.A.S.H.

Forward Medical "Aid Station"

DollHouse Furniture

German Halftrack "SdKfz 250" Engine Assembly

75mm M4 Sherman Tank Ammunition Crates

German 2 cm AA Cannon Ammo Cans (with 2 Magazines)

"Flight Leader to all planes, we've spotted FLAK guns down there!"

WW2 German 2cm Anti-Aircraft Cannon, with VERY CLEAN original Ammunition Magazines!

FAR SUPERIOR DETAIL than we originally had to work with!

Now this project can really get "On Target!"

Acquired 18 April 2008, this molding casting project is being totally remolded and recast, to take advantage of this new upgrade;

giving us a FAR SUPERIOR product to put in the hands of SteelDragons.NET Customers!

Our DRAGON Friend "Marcus Holzhammer" brought himself and this WW2 German 2cm Flak Cannon, Ammunition Magazines and

Loose 2cm Ammunition Rounds to us. As you see, our "U.S. 101st Airborne Division" Air Defense Gunner Instructors are

feverishly working to gain expert skills!

"We're gonna need a LOT more ammo, Sir!"

So, Richard, you can see, we HAVE to get this project rolling forward aggressively!

We recorded over 100 Photos of the Objects to be molded, PRIOR to disassembly

(and during disassembly) so we could assemble molded "clones" correctly.

Having fully photographically documented the objects to be cloned (to aid reassembly),

and having fully disassembled all components, we are now ready to begin building "mold boxes".

(While we await delivery of yet more needed paints, piano music wires, miniature continuous piano hinges, etc., arriving from multiple U.S. States & Canada)

The volume of supplies already ordered, is anticipated to yield approximately 30 clones (first batch),

in either "German Dark Panzer Gray" or "Deutsches Afrika Korps Yellow".

Base of our "mold" must allow more than 1/2 inch around all edges of objects being reverse molded in molding rubber.

Roll out the Clay!

We will make a retainer "fence" around the objects being molded.

No chance of rubber leaking away from THIS bowl.

Using a 1/2 inch diameter oak dowel, Doc & Joyce made two "mold index" depressions, that will cause the "2 part mold" to fit together correctly,

when we are using the completed silicone rubber mold to "cast" RESIN finished clone objects.

"Index mark" (the "handwriting on the wall") shows us MINIMUM height that we must fill this mold box with liquid rubber.

More than 1/2 inch "clearance" around all edges of object being molded.

Height of our "fence" will correctly allow a bit more "pour", than 1/2 inch of  moldmaking rubber above the top of our object.

A long thin strip of Styrene had been used to reinforce the thin Resin wall of the Front of The Container Top, where a brass strip had been bent into

a 90 degree angle, then passed from inside to outside, then bent again at a 60 degree angle, forming the fixed portion of the Container 'latch".

Closer up: Surgeon had to use Heavy Scalpel with # 11 Blade, to "debride" the Styrene strip, that must be removed to

gain a true mold of the underlying resin. The Styrene strip will be cloned into each knockoff of the Container.

Of course, the "Plastic Reconstructive Surgeon" measured the width and length of the

excised portion of Styrene, to pave the way for a correct rebuild prototype and replications.

Styrene thickness had previously been measured, and Sheets of Styrene preordered from Suppliers, and is onsite, waiting for transplantation.

12 inch long "Engineers' Digital Calipers", placed alongside, to illustrate length of bundles of newly arrived "Piano Music Wire".

Piano Music Wire of correct premeasured thickness for Containers' Latches.

Piano Music Wire of correct premeasured thickness for Containers' Handles.

Special cutters are required to cut length of Piano Music Wires to be bent into Containers' Latches and Handles.

Brass Strip, to create fixed portion of Containers' Latches.

The "Veteran" miniature continuous piano hinge, is training the new Recruits.

The Resin "Latch" itself, in its "moldbox".

The Container TOP sits in its "mold box".

Note that wherever there were holes or slits drilled/cut through the original Container components, these have been sealed shut with "superglue".

The holes have NOT been totally depth filled with "superglue", as we desired to have guidance from each end of a hole, exactly where we should redrill

each replica container. However, failure to seal the holes would mean that we could NOT "demold" the original Container from the

future "silicone rubber mold" without RIPPING vital spots out of the rubber mold.

All the "mold boxes" were filled, then bedded down for 2-3 days, beginning at 9 p.m. March 11th, 2008.

In 2-3 days, we will flip the "moldboxes" over, and create the "second half" of each "two sided mold".

Once these are created, then we repour a new batch of "silicone molding rubber" and wait 2-3 days for those molds to "cure".

After that, we can begin "casting" RESIN container replicas, and "demold true likenesses in 5-7 minutes after each container part's RESIN has been poured.

NOTE: Properly cared for and properly stored, the "Dow-Corning High Strength III Silicone Rubber Molds"

have been shown to be able to mold between 75-1,000 true replicas of the Original item.

Completed FIRST half of "2 part mold" of 20mm Ammunition magazines (to be included in Ammo Can).

Can "Latch" handle.

Inside view of TOP of Can Lid.

Tall mold of Main Body of Ammunition Can (bottom view).

U.S. 105mm "H.E." (High Explosive) Shell for M4 Sherman (105mm Version).

Type 1, U.S. 75mm Shell for M4 Sherman Tank. This shape shell is typical of both "Cannister" rounds (works like a Shotgun Shell),

for point blank anti-personnel defenses; and this same shell shape is also "WP Smoke".  The actual shell type

is determined by reading the labeling that will be on the individual shells.

Type 2, U.S. 75mm Shell for M4 Sherman Tank (75mm Version). This is a HE-AT shell (High Explosive Anti-Tank).

Type 3, U.S. 75mm Sherman Tank Round, stands alongside our WW2 German "88mm L71" TIGER Tank round.

This type 75mm Shell is "APC-T" (Armor Piercing, with Tracer).

We will be making available to customers, through our E-Retailer "SteelDragons.Net",

the German 88mm Shells, fired and unfired, in Ammunition Crates, plus spares,

AND the 4 types of U.S. 75mm Sherman Tank rounds, fired and unfired, in Ammunition Crates, plus spares;

[Note: The WW2 U.S. 75mm Tank round was also chambered to fit your U.S. 75mm Field Gun (Artillery Piece) They were interchangeable]!

We will also be offering through SteelDragons.NET, our U.S. 105mm Sherman and 105mm Gun rounds, fired and unfired,

in Ammunition Crates, plus spares.

FUTURE projects: Various U.S. Sherman Tank 76mm and 90mm Rounds, as above.

Here are the "fired cartridge cases" of the German 88 L71 round, and of the U.S. 75mm Shell.

All of that gunpowder pushing that tank cannon shell, definitely made the "TIGER" Tank a HIGH VELOCITY opponent!

However, whenever something is gained, something is lost, so, because of the High Velocity of this "88mm L71 Shell" ripping

out to demolish its intended target, the Germans could only fire 100 shots before they must change the cannon barrel on their TIGER!

Fired "Brass" from U.S. 105mm Shell.

Fired "Brass" from U.S. 75mm Shell.

The German "88mm L71" shell comes ABOVE Lieutenant Ricky Foster's waist!

Doc & Joyce's Wooden items production (in various stages of completion) for the preceeding week.

1/6th scale wooden Armchairs receive 2nd coat of "Classic White Oak" stain ("Minwax" polyurethane stain).

Top of Engine:  There was severe "pitting" in some areas, and this required 4 coatings of sealer to fill these in.

Each coating of "seam filler/sealer" must be allowed four hours between coatings, or they are still wet, and

any subsequent application, is partially removing corrections already attempted.

Right side of engine block: Several large chunks of stray resin have had to be handsanded using ultrafine sandpaper.

There was severe "pitting" in some areas, and this required 4 coatings of sealer to fill these in.

Flywheel bell housing of engine block: Several smaller chunks of stray resin have had to be handsanded using ultrafine sandpaper.

There was severe "pitting" in some areas, and this required 4 coatings of sealer to fill these in.

Left side of engine block: Several large chunks of stray resin have had to be handsanded using ultrafine sandpaper.

There was severe "pitting" in some areas, and this required 4 coatings of sealer to fill these in.

Some components can be placed into "1 part molds", however, some need "2 part molds".

The "long block engine" must be a "2 part mold". It is a massive part, and like the "radiator", will need a large volume of "mold creation rubber" to fill its needs.

Note above, the round depressions in the blue clay ("index marks"), which will allow us to accurately approximate the 2 "final production molds",

so that both sides of the mold match up well, allowing a truer likeness in the finished product "engine assembly" part.

The first catalyzed batch of "Quickset mold making rubber" was 5 pounds plus; but as one can readily see, failed to adequately fill the "mold cups" (blue clay)

at least 1/2 inch over the tops of the solid block "radiator" or the "long block engine". A second batch must be whipped up (rapidly), and these two molds filled to their brim.

The sheer volume of these molds for these 2 large items, and the density of the "Quickset molding rubber", took another 3 pounds to create these

molds full to the top. The "Quickset mold making rubber" reaches good "cure" in 4-24 hours, and thereafter, the "master item" may be demolded,

and the molds used to "cast" final product TOYS. However, in the case of these 4 items (yellow-tan color in blue clay), these must be created as

"2 part molds", thus we will have to repeat the entire process for the flip side later!

The four (pink material" molds on the lower right of the above photo, are molds of items with much "undercutting" on the master items the molds are being made of.

The "Quickset mold making rubber" (above "yellow tan" color) would "cure" too stiff to allow removal of the items after moldmaking. We would

thus have to destroy the new molds, just to extract the master item molded. For this reason, we have used "Dow-Corning HS 3" molding rubber (pink colored above),

which is a very flexible final product mold rubber, preserving fine details, and allowing relatively easy extrication of the master items after mold creation.

From this low angle, one can identify the 2 different kinds of "molding rubber" used.

Also, this angle identifies the taller molds used for the smaller items (pink rubber material).

Although the "Dow-Corning High Strength 3" mold making rubber was used for molding these items, and takes 24-48 hours to "cure" prior to demolding,

these are only "1 piece molds", and will be useable (after curing) for casting final product parts.

So far, approximately 11 pounds total of the two different types of mold making rubber has been used.

The clay has been removed from Side 1 of the "Engine Longblock" mold.

The master item is NOT removed from the new (yellow tan color) mold, rather

the engine must be carefully cleaned of traces of the blue clay, then washed with "isopropyl rubbing alcohol";

next, we build a blue clay mold wall around the edges of, and raising above the new "part 1 engine mold" and the exposed (yet unmolded)

portions of our engine. Then we brush coat the exposed portion of the "part 1 mold" with "rubber to rubber mold release agent", so that the

2 separate sides of the mold do NOT adhere to one another! After this mold release has been applied, we may

pour the "Quickset mold making rubber" to create "part 2 engine longblock mold".

Here is side 1 of the mold of one of the "engine manifolds".

We are peeling away, the blue clay "mold box" from the next item.

And here is side 1 of the mold of the second "engine manifold".

Having first removed the blue clay mold box wall, the monoblock "radiator" has been removed from the backing moldboard (the radiator

was attached by a small drop of "superglue" to keep it from shifting around in the clay mold box during pouring of mold making rubber).

The original master item, is carefully wiggled around to loosen it up for removal from the mold (to prevent tearing), then extracted.

Shot after molding and extraction, this photo shows the efforts applied to filling and sealing hundreds of airbubbles we found on the master item,

when we received it. We have expended a great deal of time and effort, in attempts to greatly improve the master toy item prior to recreating our

production master molds. The "pitting" holes are still visible on this master item, but they have been filled with transparent yellow sealer

 (4 coats, needing a couple of hours drying time between each coat). This should drastically improve the final production "sales" item.

One can see how perfect the "details" of this newly created "1 part mold" are.

"SteelDragons.NET" should soon be receiving outstanding retail sales products from us.

We will trim away the excess mold rubber on the edges of top surface of this mold

before we "cast" the resin to create saleable toy items.

Completed "one part mold" of Water Pump and Thermostat.

Completed "one part mold" of stem of heater return hose.

Completed "one part mold" of the larger radiator fan pulley.

Completed "one part mold" of smaller radiator fan pulley.

These are ready for "casting" replicas.

Second clay mold box, for "part 2 mold" engine manifold # 1.

Second clay mold box, for "part 2 mold" engine manifold # 2.

Building up the second clay mold box, for the "part 2 mold" of the engine longblock.

In case that someone may have forgotten, how massive this engine longblock is....and how large the mold for it must be!

To pour the "second side mold" of 2 part molds, we must first brush "Rubber to Rubber Mold Release" onto all exposed portions of

rubber of the first side of these molds. Otherwise, the 2 parts of the molds will adhere together, and then must be cut apart

to release the original TOY; also, we would lose the value of creating the protruding "index marks".

We must then let the "rubber to rubber mold release" dry thoroughly before pouring the new layer of molding rubber.

Due to several drastic "undercuts" on this side of our Engine "longblock", we used

"Dow-Corning HS3 mold making rubber" for the second side of this mold.

Time to pour the second side of the molds for the 2 "engine manifolds".

We can use "Quickset mold making rubber" for these 2.

Another 5-6 pounds (combined weight) of the 2 different types of mold making rubber has been required.

We have unclayed the two "engine manifold" molds;

so let's open them up and see what kind of results we have inside!

These 2 were molded with "Quickset molding rubber" and can be separated today.

The "engine longblock" mold (second side) was molded from "Dow-Corning HS III molding rubber"

and needs at least 12 more hours to "cure" prior to separation.

We now have a "2 part mold" for each "engine manifold".

These molds are now ready for "casting" of resin final product toys parts.

We've peeled off the outer mold shell of blue clay box, now it's time to so how well the "2 sided mold" separates for the first time!

Looks like our "2 part mold" has recorded a very clean true likeness of our "SdKfz 250" engine longblock (made for SteelDragons.NET).

Well, we are now ready to begin brief final cleanup  (with a scalpel) of the "flash" (spare material on mold edges), of each mold set;

then we are ready to begin the process of "casting" final production "8 piece engine assemblies".

That casting will be begun later today.

Then there were TWO......

The "original" of each item, is on the bottom row (photo above).

As one can see, we have a rapidly growing inventory in our "auto parts store".

After we cut away the excess sprue and flash, the result is coming out PERFECT !

Our "Kids General Motors" is working hard for STEELDRAGONS.NET !!!

Tomorrow, we USPS Priority Mail, a sample complete 8 piece Engine Assembly to them,

so they can get ready to sell them all to very happy Customers!!!

SIX more complete "German SdKfz250 Engine Assemblies" were shipped yesterday by USPS Priority Mail.

Check them out at STEELDRAGONS.NET by clicking HERE !!!

7 more "M2 Browning .50 MG Ammunition Crates"

and 8 more "M1919 Browning .30 MG Ammo Crates"

heading towards STEELDRAGONS.NET for retail Sales!

Click HERE to check them out!